Choosing a tailor
How to Tell if Suit Fabric Is Real (Selvedge, Burn Test, Mill Books)
Question answered: “How do I know the fabric is really Italian / cashmere?”
By Tony Ram, Second-generation owner, Peninsula Bespoke Tailor · Updated
To check suit fabric is genuine, look for the mill name woven into the selvedge (the fabric's edge), ask to see the mill's swatch book, and feel it: real wool is springy and recovers from creasing. A burn test on a loose thread also helps: wool smells like burnt hair and turns to ash, while polyester melts into a hard bead.
What checks can I do in the shop?
| Check | Real wool | Polyester / blend |
|---|---|---|
| Selvedge | Mill name and wool grade woven in | Often blank or vague |
| Crease test | Springs back | Stays creased or feels plasticky |
| Feel | Dry, soft, slightly springy | Slippery or shiny |
| Burn test (thread) | Smells like hair, turns to ash | Melts into a bead, smells chemical |
Can a selvedge be faked?
Yes, sometimes. That's why mill swatch books and a tailor's reputation matter as much as a woven name.
What does Peninsula stock?
We stock 1,000+ fabrics, including wool, cashmere, linen, cotton and silk from Italy, England and Australia, and we'll show you the source of any fabric you choose.
Frequently asked questions
- What is a selvedge?
- The finished edge of a fabric roll, where mills often weave their name.
- Is a wool blend bad?
- Not always. Wool-linen or wool-silk can be excellent. The problem is fabric sold as something it isn't.
- Can I do a burn test in the shop?
- Ask the tailor for a loose thread first.
Your Bangkok tailor
Make your garment with Peninsula Bespoke Tailor
Bring what you learned in this guide to a personal fabric and fitting consultation. Visit us at 839 Silom Road, Soi 17 and Pramuan Road, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand. We are open daily 09:00–21:00. Call or WhatsApp +66 89 477 9926 or email info@peninsulabespoketailor.com.